The pleasure that exists in mountains is greater than that of animate beings, for they feel no heat, nor cold, nor pain, nor anger, nor fear, nor pleasure. We three gods as mountains will reside in the earth for the benefit of mankind.
— Eric Shipton
A few years ago, while watching me photograph wildflowers during our trek to Bhrigu Lake (Aug 2019), my sister-in-law insisted that I trek to the Valley of flowers. She told me about the valley, the flowers, and the heavenly scent of the flowers that almost caused her to faint. That graphic detail was good enough for me … I almost instantly decided to trek to the Valley of flowers exactly a year from then.
However, the charming dark one, who pretty much directs me through life, had other plans. The outer world went through a great turmoil and a great transition happened in my inner world. Finally, after exactly 3 years that moment came. On a cloudy and gloomy morning, my wife and I boarded the flight to Dehradun. In stark contrast to the outer world, our inner world was bright and sunny … filled with the joys of anticipation of trekking through what is supposedly known as heaven on earth in the trekking circles.
Fri, Jul 29 2022
The flight to Dehradun landed on time. And after a quick drive, we reached Haridwar and checked-in to our hotel. Not wanting to waste any time, we hit the ghats of Haridwar right away and then waded our way through the meandering streets of Moti Bazaar to find the shop that sells the most mouth-watering puri-sabzi and sweets. After a sumptuous meal we walked back to the ghats to watch the evening Ganga Aarti.
Sat, Jul 30 2022
At around 6:25 am we left Haridwar behind for the mountains. Just over an hours drive got us to the lap of the mountains with Ganga-ji roaring downstream. I found a quiet spot near the colorful stones and sat down. Apart from the burbling of the river, a few bird calls, and the spectacular view that was unfolding in front of my eyes, the Universe had nothing more to say that morning. And I was grateful.
Soon after we resumed our journey, we reached Devprayag—the confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi rivers—both rivers thereafter flow on as the Ganga. Our companion for the journey thereon would be the Alaknanda river and we’ll see Ganga-ji again on our way back.
Later in the afternoon, after a bit of an arduous journey through the mountainous terrain, we reached Blue Poppy Resorts—our halt for the next two nights. As we reached the resort, we were greeted by spectacular views of the Garhwal Himalayas. The floating clouds between the folds of the mountains gave us a sense of stepping into heaven.
As evening rolled in, the setting sun set ablaze Nanda Devi—the second-highest mountain in India, after Kangchenjunga. The mountains and the streaks of cloud leading up to Nanda Devi were all on fire from the flames of the setting sun. The magic that unfolded left us speechless and motionless.
Sun, Jul 31 2022
The day started with a light drizzle on our back. As the drizzle faded a thick cover of mist engulfed us. Eight of us, along with our Trek Leader—Jaydeep, started with our trek to Gorson top. The lush green meadows of Gorson reminded me of my Bhrigu Lake trek. The different shades of green accentuated by Himalayan cacti and wildflowers were a sight to behold.
Soon we reached the area that marks the starting point of Nanda Devi National Park—that inflection point where supposedly civilization ends and wilderness begins. The lush green Bugyals (meadows) and the blue mountains, punctuated with tufts of cloud, seemed to have transported us to heaven.
The green meadows transform into ski slopes in winter that are often fed with artificial snow from the lake during scanty snowfall.
After an eye-full of a slice of heaven we entered a dense Oak forest. Immediately after, it started pouring and transported us to a spooky setting. The spookiness was further accentuated with ghost stories narrated by Jaydeep.
As we came out of the forest on the other side the mist engulfed us completely. Due to near-zero visibility the group decided not to climb the summit. However, I decided to climb the summit anyway and enjoy the solitude. I was accompanied by Jaydeep and two dogs who looked like twins. On clear sunny days, we can have a 360° view of the Himalayan range including peaks like Hathi, Nanda Devi, Palki, Gauri, and Neelkanth. But today was not that day. I had to be contended with the slice of Bugyal and wildflowers under my feet and the two frolicking dogs.
Mon, Aug 1 2022
The next day we woke up amidst a slice of heaven. As the streaks of cloud revealed the most magnificent mountains that human eye can behold, my heart was filled with gratitude for god. The disappointment of not being able to witness the supposedly enchanting views from Gorson top faded away like the floating clouds I was witnessing.
Soon, it was time to drive to Govindghat and thereafter to Pulna—a small village that would be our starting point for trek to Ghangaria. The 10 km trail to Ghangaria is well-defined and goes all the way along the Lakshman Ganga river.
It rained heavily through most of our trek. The wet, wooded trail often opened up to enchanting views of the mountains laced with blue-grey clouds. The view of the meandering river through the lush green woods and the thousands of waterfalls rolling down the mountains filled my heart with love. These are the times I live for … when the beauty of nature merges with my inner being … when nature and soul becomes one.
After almost 5 km walk we stopped by a roadside dhaba for lunch. The Aloo Paratha served there was finger-licking good. Thereafter, we crossed the river and went to the other bank.
After almost 6 hours of trek, we approached a tabular land, a helipad, and an array of tents that would be our campsite for the next three days.
Tue, Aug 2 2022
Next morning, when the campsite was yet to wake up, I grabbed my camera and went for a stroll by the river. On my way back, there was just enough light to capture the beauty of the campsite and the waterfalls that carved their own path.
As they say, the morning shows the day. The crisp air and clear skies had pretty much set the trend for the day. When I’m in the mountains I no more pray for good weather. I know now that god reveals what he wants us to see and hides what we’re not ready to see yet.
After many years of waiting, finally the day had come when we got to trek to the Valley of flowers. As I started trekking, I soon realized the trek was of moderate difficulty and no more an easy trek that it used to be in the past. Though the trek starts out on relatively flat ground, but after a km when you cross a scenic bridge across a stream gushing below, a steep climb through thick dense forest inundated with bhurja (birch) trees begin. For several years, I’ve marveled at the wisdom in the Vedas and I wanted to see and touch the Bhojpatra (thin bark coming off the tree used as writing paper) on which they were written. To see the Bhojpatra with my own eyes and touch them with my hands was a dream come true. I had tears of joy trickle down the corner of my eyes.
The valley is a botanist’s dreamland! I found flowers, leaves, and buds of various shapes, sizes, and colors with various types of bees, flies, and insects hovering on the myriad flowers.
As I walked further into the valley, I was engulfed with an amazing scent, which unfortunately cannot be captured but can only be felt. Prominent flowers that I saw included Meadow Geranium, Snake Foil, Hooked Stick Seed, Himalayan Rose, Blue Poppy, River Anemone, White Leaf Hog Foot and Dog Flower.
The valley stretches 5-7 km further until it ends at the Pushpawati river bank.
When I reached the river bank, there was no one apart from three foreigners. And apart from the sound of the gushing river all I could hear was the sound of my own beating heart. I sat by the shore in a meditative trance following my breath to my inner being. And at that very moment a beautiful sense of freedom engulfed me. I took off my shoes and dipped my feet into the icy cold water and stared at the floating clouds around the peak beyond the valley.
After couple of hours of silent contemplation, I headed back. The afternoon sun falling on the valley from a different angle gives a whole new perspective to the same valley that I saw in the morning. Almost as if I’m seeing an entirely different valley. Moreover, I think the couple of hours of meditative state heightened my awareness, vision, and sense of smell. Colors seemed more vibrant, flowers seemed to emit deeper fragrances, and clouds seemed to stretch beyond the horizon. Words can’t describe most of it and photos can’t capture its essence fully. Nevertheless, I captured elements of it that moved me and I hope it moves you as well. And in that beauty of movement, I hope, we all realize the grace of god.
Wed, Aug 3 2022
Next day began with silent contemplation. We had no where to go … nothing to do. So we sat by the tent and saw the clouds float over and drape the mountains. We chatted … with strangers … who were turning into friends. We basked in the happiness of doing nothing.
Thu, Aug 4 2022
We started earlier than our Valley of flowers trek. As I passed the deviation to Valley of Flowers, I realized that the trek to Hemkund Sahib is quite a contrast … it’s more of a pilgrimage than a trek. I continued to trek up the steep path slowly but steadily.
Spotted a pretty waterfall and then a melting glacier on the way. It was misty all around without much visibility.
The trek is a lot steeper than Valley of flowers and its important to slow down to avoid inviting altitude sickness. I had to stay by and help a fellow trekker as she developed some signs of exhaustion. However, she’s a gritty young lady and showed enough perseverance and determination to reach Shri Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara well in time for the morning Ardas. After Ardas we bonded over langar with generous helpings of hot tea and khichdi.
After the sumptuous meal, my wife and I walked around the Hemkund Lake and took some photos of the barely visible Gurudwara, some selfies, and a photo of the mythical Brahma Kamal—that grows only at heights of 10,000 ft to 15,000 ft. Around Hemkund, Brahma Kamal grows abundantly.
The walk down can be strenuous on the knees and toes. My wife and I, descended slowly, stopped for refreshments and admired the enchanting bird’s-eye view of Valley of flowers.
Fri, Aug 5 2022
Our itinerary included a trip to Badrinath and Mana village as well. However, due to ongoing landslides in that region we had to return 2 km from Badrinath. Mana holds a special place in my heart since it’s believed that Maharshi Vyas had composed Mahabharata and 18 Puranas in this cave. There is also another cave, Ganesh Gufa, nearby where Lord Ganesha had written the epic Mahabharata dictated by Maharshi Vyas. Hence, it was a bit of a disappointment but maybe great things are in store for us that’ll lead us to Badrinath and Mana in the future. So I surrendered all my disappointments on our way back at Vishnuprayag and let god’s grace to flow through me.
Sat, Aug 6 2022
At Joshimath, we stayed at a beautiful property called The Tattva. The enchanting monsoon views of Joshimath from the hotel will remain with me for the rest of my life.
Sun, Aug 7 2022
As we descended down to the foothills of Rishikesh, I realized that returning to civilization is a lot harder for me than trekking the mountains.
However, in the sanctuary of Dev Bhoomi (Abode of the Gods) I seem to have found lasting peace. I may or may not trek the Himalayas again, but it’s unmovable beauty and peace would continue to live at the core of my heart.
There is pleasure in the pathless woods, there is rapture in the lonely shore, there is society where none intrudes, by the deep sea, and music in its roar; I love not Man the less, but Nature more.
Lord Byron
I’m grateful to
- Devkant and Seema Sangwan of Blue Poppy Holidays for making this trip possible along with the entire team who worked relentlessly to make this a memorable experience.
- Jaydeep Bhat, our trek leader, who knew the mountains like the back of his hand.
- Anand Negi, who drove us through the treacherous Himalayan terrain and brought us safely back to the foothills.
- Pallavi Ray, my wife and best friend for being an enthusiastic and supportive companion throughout our entire journey.
- All our fellow travelers who made this trip enjoyable and memorable.